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Supersoil Recipes

The idea of “Supersoil” has always been to build a blend of soil and it with enough nutrients for the entire life cycle of a plants life. Some recipes require a “compost” or “cooking” process of 4 -6 weeks; amendments and minerals are allowed time to break down with the assistance of microbes to help facilitate this “cooking/composting” process. Some of the older recipes have been collected over the years from various resources and are quite a bit more labor intensive, guano teas and re-building large quantities of used soil can be a hassle but certainly come in handy when considering cost of new soil and bottled nutrients. No matter the method the objective has always been to have something that feeds YOUR pants FROM START TO FINISH, it is for this reason why there are so many options for building a “Supersoil”. We hope these recipes can be a resource and guideline for everyone looking to make growing easier; and organically too!

Original ``Supersoil`` Recipes


by TGA

8 – 1.5 ft3 bags of high quality base soil

1 – 33lb. bag of Worm Castings

2.5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal

5 lbs. High Phosphorus Bat Guano

5 lbs. Blood Meal

2.5 lbs. Bone Meal

3 cups. Oyster Shell

3 cups. Kelp Meal

3 cups Alfalfa Meal

3/4 cup Epsom Salt

1 cup Dolomite Lime

2 cups Azomite

2 TBS powdered Humic Acid

8 – 1.5 ft3 bags of high quality base soil organic potting soil with Mycorrhizae

1 – 25-50lb. bag of Worm Castings

5 lb. Steamed Bone meal

5 lb. Bloom Bat Guano

5 lb. Blood meal

3 lb. Rock Phoshate

¾ cup Epson salts

½ to 1 Cup cup Sweet Lime ( Dolimite)

½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements)

2 tbs. Powdered Humic Acid

Living Organic Soil


by BuildASoil.com

“The reason we put this system together is for those that want to have a birds eye view of the entire process from start to finish. Many people want to grow naturally and just don’t trust that it will work. Some are doing it now but they are missing some key element and it’s not coming out quite right. Once you get the full picture and understand how flexible this whole system is you will “get it” and create your own system that works for you and your situation.

The ultimate goal is to use nothing but home made compost that has been created with all of the nutrients built in. If you can get to the point where your soil is so alive and healthy that all you have to do is plant a seed and add water, then you have arrived.  Having the best soil doesn’t have to take forever and in the mean time there are many Compost teas, Botanical Teas and fertilizer inputs that you can add to Build a soil for long term production.

The modern way is to use chemistry to make NPK and several micro-nutrients available to the plants through use of plant ready water soluble nutrients. The PH of the nutrient supply will heavily effect the outcome of the plant. This is the “Feeding the plant” Paradigm.

The organic way is to build a compost based on the plants that are high in nutrient content and to utilize organic amendments that work in harmony with the plant and the soil. The BuildASoil way is to combine premium compost materials with diverse mineral inputs and utilize biology along with science. We are constantly getting our soils tested and adjusting so you don’t have to. We want diversity and we want it all in the soil. The nutrients aren’t immediately available in the organic system, we will rely on the biology of the soil to naturally produce nutrients for our plants based on it’s growing needs. The soil food web is the cornerstone to cultivating plants in a Living Organic Soil System. The soil life is active and healthy and helping to make these nutrients available, and the plants growing on this Living Organic Soil have free-choice of any nutrient they want, in balance, a balance designed by intelligent science and observation. But it doesn’t come in a bottle. The other nice thing about Building A Soil for All Natural production indoors, is that you have a blank canvas to work with… you can literally build the best soil possible. While working on large outdoor farms, you have to work with the existing soil and improve it over time. ”

-BuilsASoil.com

Rule #1: Don’t try to grow a plant, instead BuildASoil that does that for you: Use Premium inputs and get premium results. Your goal is to build the best soil possible and keep it like a pet. Keep it moist and alive as best as you can, input more than you take out and the soil will last forever as it continues to evolve and become more blessed with life.

Rule #2: Learn to make your own compost and your own Earthworm Castings: You would be surprised how small of a space you can make quality compost in. Search our website for “indoor compost” and you will see what I mean. But if you really can’t do the whole compost or worm bin thing, then I suggest you learn to find a really good source for local compost that is affordable. If you can’t find compost local then use our pure worm castings. The shipping keeps the price a little high, but my goal is to make this as affordable as possible for everyone to benefit from.

Rule#3: Use premium quality compost or earthworm castings, preferably home made. Yes I said this twice. It’s that important.

Rule #4: Don’t be tempted to go back to the bottled nutrients: Even if they say organic, because nothing will be as good as you own soil. The big bottled nutrient companies buy ingredients in bulk and often use soy and cotton that are GMO and full of pesticides. Get this right and your garden will be more productive and more nutritious than ever before. Don’t worry about growing plants, focus on building soil!

Rule #5: Avoid ingredients that say they are organic but really aren’t good for the environment. The Organic Label is slowly selling out in the marketplace depending on who is doing the certification. Don’t worry if it’s not organic as long as you know where it came from and that it is good stuff. Think about each ingredient in the products you purchase. Just because the nutrients at the grow shop have cool labels and high prices does not mean that they will grow better plants.

Rule #6: No matter what else you do, make sure you MULCH. If you skip Mulching you are missing the boat. 

Vegetative Phase:
If your soil is older and full of life you can most likely just use good clean water all the way through from start to finish. But when you are first mixing up a fresh soil it is helpful to boost the soil life by using Compost Tea’s. When your soil needs a nutrient kick you can also try Botanical Tea’s and other DIY nutrient solutions. To learn More about Compost Tea and Botanical Tea’s, Read Below in the details.
Week 1: Use the Aloe and or Coconut Solution to water once.
Week 2: Straight water
Week 3-5: Water or Botanical Tea depending on how the plants look. If they aren’t dark green and healthy, you may want to use a tea.
Week 6-8: Transplant to garden or final container and use a BuildAFlower top dress kit with a compost tea or Kelp Meal Tea. 
Flowering Phase: 
Focus on minimizing stress to your plants. Pay attention to the increased use of water at this point and make sure to do a good pest spray right before this point.
Week 1-2: After the Flowering Top Dress, Water only or Basic Botanical Teas
Week 3-4: Start using SST tea’s at this point if you haven’t done so already. (SST = Sprouted Seed Tea)
Weeks 4-8: SST, Aloe Vera Juice, Coconut water or just straight water. Don’t overdo it, but don’t be scared to spoil your plants. No more botanical tea’s will be necessary from here on out unless you know that this variety has a long season and will require an extra boost.

15% Vermicompost

15% Compost

30 – 40% Sphagnum Peat Moss or Homemade Leafmold

20 – 30% Small Lava Rock, Perlite, Buckwheat hulls, rice hulls etc. something for aeration

5 -15% Topsoil (You can skip this if you are unsure of the quality of your topsoil)

*Don’t worry about being exact, just get a good mix together and lightly moisten it all and add your soil amendments and then let sit for 2-4 weeks before planting into it. You can mix it up on a tarp and then wrap it up in the tarp until it’s ready or you can scoop it all into a trashcan or just simply into a huge pile in the garden. With all these premium ingredients it would be bests to keep this soil mixed up and covered. This will allow it to heat up and breakdown any of the ingredients that require more composting before you plant into it.

4 Gallons of water in 5 gallon brewer will allow for foaming

1.5 cups of Earthworm castings or high quality compost screened so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.

1/3 Cup Non Sulfured Molasses

Brew for 24 – 30 Hours at between 60 and 80 degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30 hours.

*Without a microscope and Dissolved Oxygen Meter we really don’t know what is going on in the Compost Tea. I would recommend using EWC Slurry if you don’t want to worry about all of this. To make a slurry use 10-20% vermicompost to clean water and brew for 24 hours.

Use this if your plants aren’t taking to the new soil well, or if the new seedlings aren’t growing as fast as you think they should be. Compost tea will help kick start the nutrient cycling that occurs when soil micro-life breakdown the organic soil amendments into available plant nutrients the plants can uptake.

Often times when you see a plant that is yellowing or has strange growth it is because of a nutrient deficiency. Adding more fertilizer is NOT the problem when you Build A Soil properly. The nutrients are Absolutely in the soil, and this cuts all the guessing out. If you use a compost tea in this situation you will more than likely see all of the plants start miraculously growing healthy again within 48 hours. The great thing is you won’t need to spend any time diagnosing for plant health issues because it’s all in the SOIL baby!

Here is the basic Compost Tea Recipe you should always be using. Unless you have expensive microscopes and a complete understanding of the process’s involved it will be best to stick with this recipe.

You will Need a compost tea brewer, if you don’t have one, then check out the DIY Tutorial instructions here or email me and I’ll help you build a cheap one that will work alright to start.

(If you don’t have the resources to build a proper brewer, don’t try and half ass it…. just make Earthworm Casting Slurry Instead and feed that to your plants.)

Seeds have all the enzymes ready to create life and we can harness this with sprouts. Think of this as a do it yourself enzyme tea that costs pennies.

This super seed tea will change your game completely and is worth the extra time it takes. Use this weekly or at least once per month especially towards the finish of your plants.

Ingredients: 2 ounces of Organic Barley Seeds, Corn Seeds, Legumes, really anything but it works best with barley because barley is cheap and also high in nutrients.

I use a seed sprouter but you could easily use a jar. Take your 2 ounces of seeds and soak them for 8-12 hours or so and then rinse well. This is key, because you will be rinsing off a compound that inhibits growth on the surface of the seeds and we don’t want this in our finished product.

Once the seeds are soaked and rinsed you can leave them kinda moist in the bottom of the jar and let the sprout over 2-3 days. Once the tails are as long as the seed itself you can then fill the jar with water and let it sit for 3 days or you can blend up the seeds and mix with 5 gallons of water to use immediately.

1 Part Malibu Compost / Oly Mountain Fish Compost

1 Part Sphagnum Peat Moss

2/3 Part Pumice

1/3 Part Rice Hulls

*(Optional) 5% Pre-Charged Colorado Bio Char

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup per cubic foot

Neem Cake / Karanja Cake  @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Crustacean Meal  @ 1/2 cup per cubic foot

Minerals:

Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Brix Blend Basalt  @ 2 Cups Per Cubic Foot

  • COMING SOON

Gypsum Dust  @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

 

  •  = Available @ AggressiveGarden.com

Per Cu.Ft. of Base Soil

1/2 cup organic Neem meal

1/2 cup organic Kelp meal

1/2 cup organic Crustacean meal

1/2 cup organic insect frass

1/3 cup Gro-Kashi

1/3 cup Karanja Meal

1/4 cup of fish bone meal

1/16th cup of Modern Microbes

3 cups of some Rock/Mineral Mix

Minerals:

2 part Oyster Shell Flour

2 part Gypsum

1 parts Glacial Rock Dust

1 part Basalt

1 part Calcium Bentonite

2 CuFt Sphagnum moss

1 CuFt Pumice – Lava Rock

1 CuFt Biochar – Charged – Modern Beginning

1 CuFt Rice Hulls

2 CuFt Humus – 1/3 Compost(Malibu Compost / Oly Mountain) and 2/3 Earthworm Castings

*If on hand throw in a few handfuls some probiotic herbs – comfrey, nettle, dandelion, etc..

Old School Recipes


Cataloged & Comprised from Oline Forums

5 parts Sphagnum Peat and/or Coco Coir
3 parts Perlite
2 parts Earth Worm Castings or Malibu Compost or Home Made Compost
Powdered (NOT PELLETED) Dolomite Lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soilless mix.

6 parts Pro Mix HP / BX -or- Sunshine Mix #4 -or- Fox Farm – Ocean Forest or Happy Frog
2 parts Perlite
2 parts Earthworm Castings
Powdered Dolomite Lime @ 2 tablespoons per Gallon -or- 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix -NOT Pelleted

1 tablespoon Blood Meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
2 tablespoons Bone Meal per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
1-tablespoon Kelp Meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix

(OPTIONAL) 1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of Azomite to supplement the K (potasium) in the Kelp Meal and seaweed extract.

*Mix all the dry nutrients into the soilless mix well and wet it, but don’t soak it. Use Liquid Karma and water @ 1 tbs./gal. Stir and mix it a few times a week for a week or two so the bacteria can get oxygen and break down the nutrients and make it available. And don’t let the mix dry out, keep it moist and add water as needed. It’ll also have time to get the humic acids in the Liquid Karma going and the dolomite lime will be better able to adjust the pH of a peat based mixture too.

1/3 Cup – High Nitrogen Guano (Mexican Bat Guano / Peruvian Seabird Guano) per Gallon of soil mix
1/2 Cup – High Phosphorus Guano (Jamaican/Indonesian Bat Guano / Seabird Guano) per Gallon of soil mix
1 Tablespoon (TBSP) Kelp Meal per Gallon of soil mix

*OPTIONAL – 1 Tablespoon (TBS) Azomite / Rock Dust per Gallon of soil mix

Seedling Mix:

1 Cup – Earthworm Castings (EWC) per 5 gallons of water

5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses per 5 gallons of water

Bubble/Aerate it for 24 hours @ 70 degrees.

Veg Mix:

1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG) -or- 1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract or Acadian Kelp extract.
(That makes the “dry mix”. You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 1 cup of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.
To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma or a good Humic or Fulvic acid
5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses

Use it to water with every 3rd watering.

Flowering Mix:

2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tsp. Acadian powdered kelp extract
(That makes the “dry mix”. You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 2 cups of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.

To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma or a good Humic or Fulvic acid
5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses
Use it to water with EVERY watering.

You can use queen size knee high nylon stockings for tea bags. 3 pair for a dollar at the dollar store. Tell ’em you use them for paint strainers. Put the recommended tea in the stocking, tie a loop knot in it and hang it in your tea bucket. The tea should look like a mud puddle. Agitate the bag in the water vigorously. An aquarium pump and air stone will dissolve oxygen into the solution and keep the good bacteria (microherd) alive and thriving. Let it bubble a day or two before you use it. If you find you are making too much tea and having to throw it out, use 2 1/2 gallons of water and cut the nute amount by half.

40 gallons used soil
4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups bone meal
4 cups kelp meal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .

*OPTIONAL
4 cups of Greensand
4 cups of Rock Phosphate
4 cups of diatomaceous earth

Organic pH issues

I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to “buffer” the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.
Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I’ll mention dolomite lime’s pH correction benefits.
A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.

Chlorine tap water

Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there…
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it’ll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.

Flushing

There is absolutely no reason to “flush” organic nute solutions from your soil mix. In an organic grow, the plants don’t take up the organic nutes (guano, bone, blood or kelp). The bacteria eat the organic nutes and excrete food that the plant can feed off of. So the organic nutes don’t need to be flushed because they never enter the plant. And besides, meals like kelp, bone and blood along with worm castings and dolomite can’t be flushed from your soil mix anyway. If you use guano and seaweed, try using plain water or worm casting tea for your last watering or two so the plant can use up what’s left in the soil. But drowning your soil with water isn’t necessary.